Turbo Blankets Archives - Kool Wrap Heat Protection

How to Fit a Turbo Blanket

This guide shows you how to fit a turbo blanket, from the checks before you start through to the first heat cycle. Turbo blanket installation takes basic hand tools and a cold engine. The job is simple, but the details matter: the right orientation, even spring tension, and clear space around the wastegate and sensors.

If you have not bought yours yet, start with our turbo blanket range and make sure you have the right size.

Before you start

Let the engine cool completely. Turbos hold heat long after you switch off, so ideally leave it overnight.
Check the blanket matches your turbo. Confirm the size and wastegate type against the product photos. If you are not sure, follow our guide on how to measure your turbo for a turbo blanket before you go further.
Check for oil and fuel leaks. Look at the turbo oil feed and return lines, the turbo seals and anything above the turbo that could drip onto it. Fix leaks first. The glass-fibre insulation inside the blanket can absorb oil and fuel, and a soaked blanket is a fire risk.
Read the fitting instructions supplied with your blanket. They show where the springs go for your model.

Tools and gear

Gloves and safety glasses
Long-nose pliers or a spring hook tool
Torch or inspection light
Degreaser and clean rags
Spanners or sockets if a factory heat shield or intake pipe needs to come off
Stainless steel ties if you plan to wrap the dump pipe as well

Keep plastic cable ties away from the turbo. They melt.

How to fit a turbo blanket step by step

1. Clear access

Remove any factory heat shield that covers the turbine housing and keep it and its bolts together. Take off intake pipework if you need more room to work.

2. Clean the housing

Wipe off oil residue and grime so nothing gets trapped under the blanket.

3. Test fit without springs

Offer the blanket up to the turbine housing with the stainless mesh side facing the metal. Line up the openings with the exhaust inlet flange, the outlet and, on internal wastegate models, the wastegate lever.

4. Close it around the housing

Pull the blanket snug so it sits flat, with no bunching and no bare housing showing beyond the flange openings.

5. Fit the turbo blanket springs

Hook the stainless steel mounting springs into place as shown in the supplied instructions. Work across the blanket and alternate sides so the tension stays even. Do not overstretch the springs.

6. Tidy the edges

Make sure the edges around the flanges sit close to the housing and nothing hangs loose.

7. Run the clearance checks below

Run the clearance checks below before you refit anything.

8. Refit parts

Refit the factory heat shield if it still clears the blanket, then reconnect intake pipework and anything else you removed. If the factory shield no longer fits, call us before you leave it off. Route lines and wiring away from the blanket.

Clearance checks

Wastegate actuator

On an internal wastegate turbo, move the wastegate lever by hand through its full travel. It must move freely without catching on the blanket. On an external wastegate setup, check the blanket does not press against the wastegate or its pipe.

O2 sensor

If your O2 sensor sits near the turbo outlet, keep the blanket edge clear of the sensor body and its lead. Never cover the sensor.

Heat-sensitive lines

Oil feed and return lines, coolant lines, boost and vacuum hoses, and sensor wiring should not touch the blanket. The outer surface still gets hot, so give them clearance and secure anything that could move.

Bonnet and surrounding parts

Close the bonnet and check nothing touches the blanket. Rock the engine gently by hand and make sure the blanket does not rub on the firewall, strut tower or chassis.

Turbo blanket smoking on the first heat cycle

Some smoke on the first run is normal. Binders in the materials burn off as the blanket reaches operating temperature for the first time.

Run the engine outside or in a well-ventilated area, never in a closed garage.
Bring the engine up to operating temperature, then take a gentle drive.
Expect the smoke and smell to fade over the first few heat cycles.
If the smoke keeps coming, gets heavier, or smells like burning oil, stop. Check for an oil or fuel leak onto the blanket.

Ongoing care

Keep oil and fuel off the blanket. Fix any new leak straight away.
Check the springs at every service. Replace any that are stretched, damaged or missing.
Check the blanket has not shifted and still covers the housing evenly.
Look for tears or worn patches in the outer layer.
Replace a blanket that has soaked up oil or fuel. Cleaning will not remove what the insulation has absorbed, and it stays a fire risk.

Kool Wrap turbo blankets carry a 12 month warranty.

When to choose silicone coated

If your turbo works in an oily or dusty environment, choose a silicone coated turbo blanket. The silicone-coated fibreglass outer resists oil and fuel. It suits trucks and plant engines, and anywhere oil and fuel are a risk. Fix any oil leak before you fit it.

Truck and marine operators can also browse our engine-specific industrial and marine turbo blankets.

Finish the job: wrap the dump pipe

The dump pipe after the turbo radiates heat too. Wrap it with exhaust heat wrap and secure it with stainless steel ties. Leave the O2 sensor unwrapped.

Together, the blanket and the wrap keep more heat out of the bay. Our step-by-step exhaust wrap install guide covers the method.

Want to know what your new blanket is doing for you? Read what a turbo blanket does.

Turbo blanket fitting FAQs

How do you fit a turbo blanket?

Let the engine cool, clear access to the turbine housing, then test fit the blanket with the stainless mesh side against the metal and the openings lined up with the flanges and wastegate lever. Hook the stainless steel springs in alternating sides so the tension stays even, check the wastegate moves freely, then refit everything you removed.

How do turbo blanket springs work?

Stainless steel mounting springs hook across the blanket and hold it closed against the housing. They are supplied with the blanket and the fitting instructions show where each one goes for your model. Work across the blanket alternating sides so tension stays even, and do not overstretch them.

Why is my turbo blanket smoking?

Binders in the materials burn off the first time the blanket reaches operating temperature. Light smoke and a smell over the first few heat cycles are normal and clear on their own. Smoke that keeps coming, gets heavier or smells of burning oil means a leak is dripping onto the blanket, and you should stop and find it.

Can you fit a turbo blanket yourself?

Yes. It takes basic hand tools and a cold engine. The parts that need care are the mesh side facing the housing, even spring tension, and checking the wastegate actuator moves through its full travel afterwards.

Do I need to remove the factory heat shield?

Usually you need to take it off to get access. Refit it afterwards if it still clears the blanket. If it no longer fits, call us before you leave it off, because it may be shielding something the blanket does not cover.

Need help with your fit?

If something does not line up, stop and call us on 1300 44 33 34 with a photo of the blanket on the housing. We can confirm the fit or arrange a modified blanket. Browse the full range of Kool Wrap turbo blankets for replacement blankets and other sizes.

What a Turbo Blanket Does and How It Improves Performance

It holds heat inside the turbine housing so less of that heat radiates into the engine bay. A turbo blanket is an insulated cover that wraps around the hot side of your turbocharger, and that one job protects the parts around the turbo and cuts the heat soak that follows a hard run or a long tow.

This guide explains how a blanket works, the pros and cons, how it compares with a turbo heat shield, and who gets the most from one. If you already know you want one, compare the options in our turbo blanket range.

What is a turbo blanket?

Some people call it a turbo beanie or a turbo jacket. It is a shaped, multi-layer cover that fits over the turbine housing, the side of the turbo that exhaust gas flows through. Stainless steel springs hold it in place, so it comes off when you need to service the turbo.

A Kool Wrap turbo blanket is built in layers:

A heat-resistant outer layer of titanium basalt, silicone-coated fibreglass or carbon fibre, depending on the model.
A silica insulation core. It is 12mm thick in the titanium basalt and silicone coated ranges.
A stainless steel mesh inner layer that sits against the housing.
Kevlar-reinforced stitching on the titanium basalt and silicone coated models, so the seams hold together under heat.

Turbo blanket pros and cons

Pros	Cons
Less radiant heat reaching hoses, wiring, sensors and plastics	The turbine housing itself runs hotter, which is how it works
Cooler intake and intercooler piping running past the turbo	The housing stays hot longer after shutdown
Less heat soak after a hard run or a long tow	Oil or fuel soaking into the insulation ruins it and becomes a fire risk
Covers the turbo surfaces a split fuel or hydraulic line could spray onto	It only covers the turbo. The manifold and dump pipe still radiate heat
Comes off with the springs when the turbo needs servicing	The wrong size or wastegate type leaves gaps or fouls the actuator
Suits engines from a WRX to a CAT C15	It is a heat control part, not a power part

The rest of this guide works through each of these.

How a turbo blanket works

The turbine housing is one of the hottest parts under your bonnet. Exhaust gas flows straight from the manifold into it, and the housing radiates that heat in every direction.

Radiant heat travels in straight lines, like the heat you feel on your face from a campfire. Anything with a line of sight to the housing soaks it up. That includes hoses, wiring looms, the intake pipe, intercooler piping, the bonnet and the firewall.

A blanket puts a thick layer of insulation between the housing and everything around it. Heat stays in the housing and the exhaust gas instead of spreading through the bay. The housing runs hotter under the blanket. The parts around it run cooler.

Turbo blanket benefits

Lower engine bay temperatures

Less radiant heat from the turbo means a cooler engine bay. You notice this most in tight bays where the turbo sits close to the firewall, the bonnet or a strut tower.

Protection for hoses, wiring and plastics

Rubber hoses harden and crack after repeated heat cycles. Wiring insulation turns brittle. Plastic connectors and intake parts soften and warp. Keeping heat in the housing slows that damage, especially on oil and coolant lines, boost and vacuum hoses, and sensor wiring routed near the turbo.

Cooler intake and intercooler piping

Intake pipes and intercooler piping often run right past the turbine housing. When those pipes absorb radiant heat, the air inside them warms up before it reaches the engine. A blanket cuts the heat those pipes pick up.

Less heat soak after you switch off

Heat soak hits when you stop after a hard drive or a long tow. Airflow through the bay stops, but the turbo is still hot. With a blanket fitted, the heat stored in the housing escapes into the bay more slowly, so nearby parts get less of it.

Safer work sites

On trucks, earthmovers and mining gear, a split hydraulic or fuel line can spray onto a hot turbo. A blanket covers the turbo surfaces most likely to ignite a leak. Our CAT C15 blanket is listed as approved for use on all work sites, including mining and tunnel work.

Heat stays in the housing

A blanket keeps heat in the turbine housing and the exhaust gas instead of letting it warm the engine bay. Fit one for heat control and component protection, not for extra power.

Turbo blanket vs heat shield: which do you need?

Both control turbo heat. They do it differently, and plenty of builds use both.

A turbo blanket wraps the turbine housing itself and holds heat inside it. A turbo heat shield sits between the turbo and the part you are protecting, and reflects radiant heat away from it. One insulates the source. The other blocks the path.

	Turbo blanket	Turbo heat shield
Where it goes	Directly on the turbine housing	Between the turbo and the part you are protecting
How it fixes heat	Insulates, so heat stays in the housing	Reflects radiant heat off the part behind it
What it is	Multi-layer fabric with a silica core and stainless mesh	Embossed aluminium panels, single layer 1.8mm up to six layers at 3.3mm
How it fits	Stainless steel springs	Brackets or hose clamps on the semi-rigid and pipe shields. Kool Wrap also makes adhesive shields for panels
Coverage	The whole hot side of the turbo	The part or area you aim it at
Rating	Titanium basalt rated over 1,000°C continuous	DCI pipe shields rated 600°C or 1,000°C, panels to 650°C
Oil and fuel	The glass-fibre insulation can absorb a leak, and a soaked blanket must be replaced. The silicone coated outer resists oil and fuel	Not stated
Comes off for servicing	Yes, unhook the springs	Yes, unclamp it
Best when	You want the whole bay cooler and the turbo protected	You want to protect one specific part, or the turbo works somewhere oily

Choose a blanket when you want the whole engine bay to run cooler, when the turbo sits close to hoses and wiring on every side, or when a leak spraying onto a hot turbo is the risk you are managing.

Choose a shield when the problem is one specific part, such as a bonnet, a brake line or a master cylinder cooking next to the turbo, or when the turbo works in an environment so oily that a fabric blanket would soak up a leak.

Use both when the turbo is hot enough and packed in tight enough that neither alone is doing the job. Shop embossed semi-rigid heat shields or the turbo blanket range.

Do turbo blankets work? Know the limits

Turbo blankets do their job well. They do not fix everything, so know the limits before you buy.

It will not fix poor airflow. If hot air has nowhere to escape from your engine bay, a blanket helps but does not solve the root problem.
The turbine housing runs hotter. That is how the blanket works. It also means the housing stays hot for longer after shutdown, so let it cool before you touch it.
Oil and fuel ruin it. The glass-fibre insulation inside can absorb oil or fuel from a leak. A soaked blanket is a fire risk and needs replacing. Fix leaks before you fit one.
It only covers the turbo. The manifold and dump pipe still radiate heat. You can wrap the dump pipe with exhaust heat wrap to finish the job.
Fit matters. A blanket in the wrong size or wastegate type leaves gaps or fouls the wastegate actuator.

Who needs a turbo blanket?

Street and performance cars. Turbos packed into tight bays sit close to wiring, brake lines and the firewall. We make vehicle-specific blankets for the Subaru WRX (EJ20 and EJ25), VW and Audi K04 turbos and the Mitsubishi Evo X.
Towing 4WDs and utes. Long climbs under load build heat that sits in the bay at low speed. There is a dedicated blanket for the Toyota LandCruiser 1HDT.
Trucks. Long hours at high load put steady heat into the bay. Blankets suit Cummins, CAT, Scania and Holset HX55i turbos, plus a universal truck size.
Marine. Engine rooms are enclosed spaces where heat builds up fast. A blanket cuts the radiant heat coming off the turbo.
Mining and industrial. Here, fire risk and site rules come first. See our industrial and marine turbo blankets for engine-specific designs, including Cummins QSM11 and CAT C15.

Turbo blanket material: which outer layer

Titanium basalt turbo blankets: a titanium basalt woven outer, rated over 1,000°C continuous, in sizes from T2 to T6 plus vehicle-specific fitments.
Silicone coated turbo blankets: a silicone-coated fibreglass outer that resists oil and fuel. Pick it where oil and fuel are a risk, such as trucks and plant engines.
Carbon fibre turbo blankets: a carbon fibre outer over a high-temperature silica core, ultra-high temperature rated.

All three use a silica insulation core and a stainless steel mesh inner. The outer layer is what changes.

Get the right blanket for your turbo

Turbine housings vary a lot, and model lists overlap between sizes. Before you order, follow our guide on how to measure your turbo for a turbo blanket. When it arrives, our step-by-step guide on how to fit a turbo blanket covers spring fitting, clearance checks and the first heat cycle.

Turbo blanket FAQs

What does a turbo blanket do?

It holds heat inside the turbine housing so less of it radiates into the engine bay. That protects the hoses, wiring, sensors and piping around the turbo, keeps intake air cooler in a tight bay, and reduces heat soak after you switch off.

Do turbo blankets work?

Yes, at the job they are designed for, which is keeping radiant heat off the parts around the turbo. They do not add power, they do not fix an engine bay with nowhere for hot air to go, and they do not cover the manifold or dump pipe.

Are turbo blankets worth it?

They are worth it if you can name the heat problem you are solving. A tight engine bay, hoses and wiring hardening near the turbo, heat soak after towing, or a fire risk from a leak on a work site are all good reasons. If none of those apply, the money is better spent elsewhere.

What is a turbo blanket made of?

Kool Wrap blankets use three layers. A heat-resistant outer of titanium basalt, silicone-coated fibreglass or carbon fibre, a 12mm silica insulation core in the titanium basalt and silicone coated ranges, and a stainless steel mesh inner layer against the housing. Titanium basalt and silicone coated models use Kevlar-reinforced stitching.

Is a turbo blanket better than a turbo heat shield?

Neither is better. A blanket insulates the turbo itself and cools the whole area around it. A shield reflects heat away from one specific part. Pick a blanket for general bay heat, a shield to protect one component or where oil would soak a blanket, and both when the turbo runs hot in a tight space.

Can you make a DIY turbo blanket?

We would not. A blanket has to hold its shape on a turbine housing under sustained exhaust heat, take spring tension without tearing, and keep its insulation out of the wastegate linkage. Home-made covers made from wrap or matting come loose, foul the actuator, or absorb oil and become a fire risk. A properly shaped blanket comes with springs and fitting instructions.

Does a turbo blanket damage the turbo?

No. The turbine housing is built to run hot, and the blanket keeps that heat where it belongs. What does cause damage is a poor fit that fouls the wastegate actuator, or a blanket that has soaked up oil from a leak. Fix leaks first and check the wastegate moves freely after fitting.

Need help choosing?

Browse Kool Wrap turbo blankets or call us on 1300 44 33 34 with your engine, turbo model and a photo of the turbine housing. We keep standard designs and can modify them or custom-make a blanket for larger turbos.

How to measure a turbocharger when ordering a custom made Turbo Blanket

You cannot choose a turbo blanket size by car model alone. Turbocharger designs vary enormously, and turbos from the same family often wear different turbine housings. A few careful measurements get you the right fit first time.

This guide covers frame sizes, wastegate types, what to measure and what to send us. Once you have your numbers, match them against our turbo blanket range.

Why measuring matters

Designs vary. Factory, aftermarket, truck and marine turbos all use different housing shapes.
Model lists overlap. GT40 and GT55 turbos appear in both our T4 and T6 fitment lists, because housing sizes vary within one turbo family.
Wastegate type changes the fit. An internal wastegate needs a blanket shaped for it.
A poor fit costs you. Too small and the blanket will not close around the housing, leaving hot metal exposed. Too big and it sits loose, moves and can foul the wastegate arm or sensors.

Turbo frame sizes explained

The T number is a rough frame size, not a guaranteed dimension. Two turbos with the same T number can wear different turbine housings, so the fit comes from your measurements. Our standard blanket sizes run from T2, the smallest, up to T6, plus a dedicated GT25 to GT28 size. Here are the fitment examples listed on our product pages.

Blanket size	Listed fitment examples
T2	The smallest standard size. Also made in an internal wastegate version. Compare your measurements with the product dimensions.
T3 (external wastegate)	T25, T28, GT25, GT30, GT32 and GT35 with an external wastegate
T3 IWG (internal wastegate)	T3 housings with an integral wastegate, most XR6T Barra Falcons, and T25, T28, GT25, GT30, GT32 and GT35 with an internal wastegate
T4	T4, GT40, GT42, GT55, T66, T67 and T76. Housing outside diameter about 19 to 20cm
GT25 to GT28	A dedicated size for small GT-frame turbos. Check your measurements against the product dimensions.
T6 (listed as T6 universal large)	T6, T5, GT55, GT40, HX52, HT60 and T88

Use these lists as a starting point. A T3 turbo blanket or T4 turbo blanket only fits well if your housing matches the blanket’s dimensions, so always measure.

Internal or external wastegate?

The wastegate lets some exhaust gas bypass the turbine to control boost. Where it sits changes the shape of the blanket you need.

Internal wastegate (IWG). The valve is built into the turbine housing. You will see a lever on the outside of the housing, linked by a rod to an actuator can.
External wastegate. A separate wastegate unit is plumbed into the exhaust before the turbo, with its own outlet pipe. The turbine housing has no wastegate lever.

We make turbo blanket internal wastegate versions in T2 and T3 sizes, in both titanium basalt and silicone coated. If you run an internal wastegate on a T4 or larger frame, call us before you order.

The turbo blanket size chart

The size chart on this page labels each dimension with a letter. Measurements A and B are the most important, so get those right first. Work in millimetres and measure each dimension twice.

How to measure your turbo

Let the engine cool completely. Turbine housings stay hot long after shutdown.
Find the turbine housing. It is the hot side, bolted to the exhaust manifold. Do not measure the compressor housing on the air intake side.
Wipe away enough grime to see the housing edges clearly.
Measure A and B as shown on the size chart. Use a flexible tape or steel rule and record the figures in millimetres. Measure each one twice.
Record the other dimensions on the chart wherever you can reach them.
Note your wastegate type, internal or external.
Photograph the housing with a tape measure held across it. Take shots from the front, side and top, and include the wastegate lever, the manifold flange and the dump pipe connection.
Write down the engine, the vehicle or machine, and the turbo brand and model. The model is often stamped on a tag on the compressor housing.

Tips for tricky installs

If you cannot reach a dimension with the turbo in place, measure what you can and send clear photos. We can work from photos and dimensions.
Note anything close to the housing, such as an O2 sensor, oil lines, coolant lines or a factory heat shield.
Compare your figures with the photos and dimensions on the product page before you add a blanket to your cart.
If you fall between two sizes, call us before you order.

Vehicle and engine-specific blankets

If your engine is on this list, a dedicated blanket takes most of the guesswork out. Still check your photos against the product page.

Subaru WRX EJ20 and EJ25 (titanium basalt and carbon fibre)
VW and Audi K04 (titanium basalt)
Toyota LandCruiser 1HDT (titanium basalt)
Mitsubishi Evo X (titanium basalt)
CAT C13 and C15 (titanium basalt)
Cummins, including QSM11 and 12 to 19L engines (industrial and marine). Cummins turbos also appear in the silicone coated range
CAT 6.6, C3056E, C12 and C15 (industrial and marine)
Scania, including the P410 (silicone coated, industrial and marine)
Holset HX55i (silicone coated, industrial and marine)
Universal truck blankets (titanium basalt, silicone coated, industrial and marine)

Truck, marine and plant operators can browse the full list of industrial and marine turbo blankets.

Custom turbo blanket and made-to-order options

We keep standard designs and can modify them or make a custom turbo blanket for larger turbos. Some industrial blankets are made to order. The Cummins QSM11 blanket takes 2 to 3 weeks. For industrial and marine jobs, we can arrange a site visit depending on your location.

To start a custom order:

Send your measurements, with A and B clearly marked.
Attach photos of the housing with a tape measure in shot.
Tell us the engine, turbo model and wastegate type.
Call 1300 44 33 34 or email sa***@**********om.au.

Choose your material

Once you know your size, pick the outer layer. Titanium basalt turbo blankets are rated over 1,000°C continuous. Silicone coated turbo blankets resist oil and fuel, which suits oily or dusty engines. Not sure a blanket is worth it for your setup? Read what a turbo blanket does.

Turbo blanket sizing FAQs

How do I know what size turbo blanket I need?

Measure the turbine housing rather than going by your car model. Take dimensions A and B from the size chart on this page, note whether your wastegate is internal or external, and compare those figures against the product page. If you fall between two sizes, call us.

What size is a T3 turbo blanket?

The T number is a rough frame size, not a single fixed dimension, so two T3 turbos can wear different housings. Our T3 blanket is listed for T25, T28, GT25, GT30, GT32 and GT35 housings with an external wastegate, with a separate version for internal wastegate turbos. Measure your housing and check it against the product dimensions.

Do I need an internal wastegate turbo blanket?

You do if the wastegate valve is built into the turbine housing, which you can spot by the lever and actuator rod on the outside of the housing. We make internal wastegate versions in T2 and T3. For an internal wastegate on a T4 or larger, call before you order.

Can I get a custom turbo blanket made?

Yes. Send your measurements with A and B marked, photos of the housing with a tape measure in shot, and the engine, turbo model and wastegate type. We keep standard designs and can modify them or make a blanket for a larger turbo. Some industrial blankets are made to order, and the Cummins QSM11 takes 2 to 3 weeks.

What if my turbo is not on the fitment list?

Measure it and send photos. The fitment lists are examples, not a complete catalogue, and the T4 and T6 lists deliberately overlap because housing sizes vary inside one turbo family. Most turbos we have not listed still match a standard design or a modified one.

Need help with sizing?

When your blanket arrives, follow our guide on how to fit a turbo blanket. Ready to order? Browse all Kool Wrap turbo blankets, or call 1300 44 33 34 with your measurements and photos and we will match you to the right size.