Best Insulation for Vehicles Operating in Extreme Heat Conditions

Vehicles get hot, cold and loud, and most people try to fix all three with one product. That does not work, because heat and noise are different problems and the materials that solve them do different things.

This page explains which insulation does what, what order the layers go in, and what to use where. Kool Wrap has supplied heat and sound protection in Australia since 1995, to workshops, fleet operators, van builders and people working on their own car in the driveway.

 

The four materials, and what each one actually does

MaterialWhat it doesWhere it goes
Sound deadening sheetAdds mass so a panel cannot ringStraight onto clean bare metal
Foam linerAdds a thick, light layer that slows heat moving throughOver the deadener, or over bare metal
Foil bubble insulationReflects radiant heat before it reaches the surfaceBehind lining panels, with the joins taped
Heat shieldBlocks heat radiating off a hot componentBetween the hot part and whatever you are protecting

Mass, thickness, reflection and shielding. Four jobs, four materials. Adding more of the wrong one never substitutes for the right one.

 

The order the layers go in

  1. Clean metal. Degrease it. Nothing adheres properly to oil or dust.
  2. Sound deadening sheets. Mass goes first, against the panel. Kool Wrap sheets are 50 x 32cm, around 2mm thick at 3kg per square metre, with an aluminium top layer.
  3. Foam liner. Our 10mm Van Liner is closed-cell foam with a foil face, self-adhesive, 1.0m x 5.0m. Cut it with scissors and press it on. It contours around curved panels, which is why it suits vehicle interiors rather than flat sheet.
  4. Foil bubble where there is an air gap. Reflective insulation needs a gap in front of it to work. Behind a lining panel is ideal. Straight under a carpet is not.
  5. Lining or trim back over the top.

Doing step 3 without step 2 is the most common mistake. Foam is light, and light materials do not stop a panel resonating.

 

Insulation for vehicle heat

Radiant heat from the sun

This is roof and wall heat, and it is a reflection problem. Foil bubble insulation is polyethylene bubble laminated to a silver foil on one side, 5mm thick, and it blocks up to 95 per cent of radiant heat. It is waterproof. Tape the joins so the moisture barrier stays continuous.

Radiant heat from the exhaust

This is a shielding problem, not an insulation one. Heat coming off a pipe under the floor is answered by an adhesive heat shield, which carries an embossed aluminium face on a fibreglass and polyester core and reflects up to 95 per cent of radiant heat. The 5mm heavy duty version is the one Kool Wrap recommends for under-car work where the exhaust heats the floor.

Never stick an adhesive heat shield directly onto an exhaust pipe, a manifold or a turbo housing. Shields go near heat, not on it. Anything that touches the pipe is exhaust wrap territory.

Engine bay heat

Under the bonnet, a combination of adhesive foam pads and compressed felt does both heat and noise at once. Our guide to under bonnet insulation covers what goes where.

 

Insulation for vehicle noise

Noise needs mass, and mass means a sound deadening sheet on the metal. Foam over the top helps, but only after the mass is there.

Start with the panels that ring: the floor, the door skins and the boot. The car door guide works through the first of those panel by panel, and car sound deadener explained covers what the material does and why mass is the mechanism.

 

Car insulation foam, and where it does not belong

Foam is the right answer inside a cabin, a canopy or a van, over the top of a deadening layer. It is the wrong answer anywhere near an exhaust system.

There is no foam that belongs against a hot pipe. Foam is a low-temperature material and putting it near exhaust heat is a fire risk, not an insulation strategy. If you need something that handles real heat, that is rockwool, rated up to 1,000 degrees Celsius and supplied in 5m rolls, or it is exhaust wrap, or it is a heat shield. Not foam.

 

Choosing insulation for your vehicle

What you are solvingWhat to use
The cabin is loud on coarse roadsSound deadening sheets on the floor, doors and boot
The roof or canopy gets hot in the sunFoil bubble behind the lining, with taped joins
The floor is hot above the exhaust5mm heavy duty adhesive heat shield, underside of the floor
Cold mornings and condensation in a vanFoam liner over a deadening layer, walls and ceiling
Engine noise through the firewallDeadening sheet on the cabin side, under bonnet insulation on the other
Heat radiating off a turbo or manifoldA turbo blanket or exhaust wrap, not insulation

 

Questions about insulating a vehicle

How do I insulate a car for heat?

Work out whether the heat is radiant or conducted. Sun load through a roof wants a reflective layer with an air gap in front of it. Exhaust heat through a floor wants a shield fitted underneath. Cabin temperature generally wants a foam layer over a deadening layer.

What is the best insulation for a vehicle?

There is no single best one, which is why this page lists four. A vehicle that is loud and a vehicle that is hot need different products, and most builds end up using two or three together in the order set out above.

Can I use household insulation in a car?

Batts and building products are not designed for the vibration, moisture and temperature cycling inside a vehicle, and they do not stay where you put them. Use self-adhesive automotive material that is cut to fit and pressed on.

Do I need sound deadening and insulation, or just one?

Most vehicles want both, and in that order. Deadening stops panels ringing. Insulation slows heat. Neither does the other’s job.

 

Tell us what you are building

Call 1300 44 33 34 or email sales@koolwrap.com.au with your vehicle and what you are trying to fix. We ship Australia-wide with tracking sent after dispatch, from our office in Rowville, Victoria.

Essential Tools for Car Builders: Exhaust Wraps, Heat Shields, and Sound Deadener Solutions

Building or restoring a car is a labor of love for car builders. Whether you’re crafting a high-performance vehicle or restoring a classic car, every detail matters. Among the essential components car builders must consider are exhaust wraps, heat shields, and sound deadeners. These products not only enhance the performance of the vehicle but also improve safety, comfort, and longevity.

The Role of Exhaust Wrap in Vehicle Performance

Exhaust wrap is a must-have for any serious car builder, especially those working with high-performance or modified vehicles. This specialized material is designed to wrap around the exhaust headers, helping to reduce heat buildup in the engine bay. By keeping exhaust heat contained, exhaust wraps help the engine run cooler, which can lead to better overall performance.

A cooler engine means improved horsepower and a more efficient fuel burn. Exhaust wrap also helps protect nearby components, such as wiring and hoses, from heat damage. This is particularly important for car builders who are packing high-performance parts into tight spaces where heat can be an issue.

For builders working on turbocharged or racing vehicles, exhaust wraps are an absolute necessity. They reduce heat soak, helping to maintain a steady flow of exhaust gases, which can improve turbo spool time and overall engine efficiency.

Heat Shields: Protecting Key Components

While exhaust wraps focus on containing heat, heat shields are designed to deflect heat away from critical areas of the car. Heat shields are often used around the engine, transmission, or near sensitive electronics to prevent heat from causing damage.

Car builders can use heat shields to extend the life of their components by preventing overheating. Over time, heat can degrade materials, cause electrical issues, and even lead to dangerous situations like fires. By installing heat shields, builders can protect vital components and improve the reliability of their builds.

At Kool Wrap Heat Protection, we offer a wide range of heat shields designed for different applications. Whether you need a simple barrier for your exhaust system or a complex heat shield for your engine bay, our products are built to withstand extreme temperatures and provide superior protection.

Sound Deadener for a Quiet, Comfortable Ride

Another key consideration for car builders is creating a quiet and comfortable cabin. Whether you’re building a luxury vehicle or a high-performance machine, a sound deadener is an essential tool for reducing road noise and vibration.

Sound deadeners work by absorbing vibrations and noise, creating a quieter driving experience. This is particularly important for builders who want to achieve a refined feel in their vehicles. Without sound deadening, engine noise, road vibrations, and even rattles from loose components can make the driving experience uncomfortable.

At Kool Wrap Heat Protection, our sound deadeners are designed to be lightweight yet highly effective. They’re perfect for any type of build, from hot rods to everyday drivers. With easy installation and long-lasting performance, our sound deadeners can help transform your vehicle into a quiet, comfortable space.

Why Choose Kool Wrap Heat Protection?

At Kool Wrap Heat Protection, we specialize in high-quality products that make car building easier and more effective. Our exhaust wraps, heat shields, and sound deadeners are trusted by car builders across Australia for their durability and performance. Whether you’re building a street machine, a race car, or restoring a classic, we have the heat protection solutions you need.

We understand that every build is unique, which is why we offer a variety of products to suit different needs. From heavy-duty exhaust wraps to lightweight sound deadeners, Kool Wrap has you covered.

Conclusion

For car builders, using the right materials is critical to the success of the build. Exhaust wraps help manage heat in the engine bay, improving performance and protecting vital components. Heat shields offer added protection by deflecting heat away from sensitive areas, while sound deadeners create a quiet, comfortable ride. By incorporating these products into your build, you’ll not only enhance performance but also ensure your vehicle stands the test of time.

Visit Kool Wrap Heat Protection today and find the perfect solutions for your next car build!

Stainless Steel Tie Straps: The Ultimate Solution for Securing Heat Wraps and Exhaust Systems

For anyone dealing with high-performance vehicles or industrial machinery, keeping heat-sensitive components secure and functional is a top priority. Stainless steel tie straps offer a dependable solution for fastening heat wraps and exhaust systems. Their strength, resilience, and heat tolerance make them the ultimate choice for professionals and enthusiasts who demand reliability under extreme conditions.

The Role of Heat Wraps and Exhaust Systems
Heat wraps are used to manage temperatures in exhaust systems by reducing heat transfer and improving efficiency. A secure installation ensures the wrap stays in place, providing maximum thermal insulation and protecting nearby components from excessive heat exposure. Stainless steel tie straps are crucial for achieving this secure installation, offering superior grip and longevity.

How Stainless Steel Tie Straps Outperform Alternatives

  1. High Heat Resistance
    Unlike plastic or nylon fasteners, stainless steel tie straps are specifically designed to endure extreme temperatures without melting, warping, or degrading. This makes them ideal for exhaust systems, where heat levels can reach several hundred degrees Celsius.
  2. Exceptional Tensile Strength
    The robust construction of stainless steel tie straps allows them to withstand heavy stress and tension. This strength ensures that they won’t break or loosen, even under the constant vibration and movement typical of high-performance engines.
  3. Corrosion Resistance
    Stainless steel is naturally resistant to rust and corrosion, making these tie straps suitable for use in environments exposed to moisture, chemicals, or salt. This durability ensures a long service life, even in harsh conditions.
  4. Easy Application
    Stainless steel tie straps are simple to use. They feature a self-locking mechanism for quick installation and can be easily tightened for a snug fit. Excess material can be trimmed for a neat and professional finish.

Applications Beyond Heat Wraps and Exhaust Systems
While their primary use is securing heat wraps, stainless steel tie straps are versatile enough for a wide range of applications. They are frequently used in industrial settings to bundle wires, secure insulation, or fasten components exposed to extreme temperatures and conditions.

Why Stainless Steel Tie Straps Are Essential
Whether you’re upgrading a race car or maintaining heavy-duty machinery, the performance of your heat wrap and exhaust system relies on secure fastening. Stainless steel tie straps provide a reliable, long-lasting solution that ensures safety, efficiency, and durability.

When it comes to securing heat wraps and exhaust systems, stainless steel tie straps stand out as the ultimate choice. Their unparalleled heat resistance, durability, and versatility make them an indispensable tool for any high-heat application. Trust stainless steel tie straps to keep your components secure and operating efficiently, even in the most demanding environments.

How to Apply Motorcycle Exhaust Wrap in 7 Easy Steps

On many bikes the headers run right past your leg, boot and side covers. Motorcycle exhaust wrap cuts the heat that radiates off those pipes. You feel less of it at the lights, nearby plastics and wiring run cooler, and the bike gets the wrapped look plenty of riders are after.

This guide covers why riders wrap, the pros and cons, which wrap and colour to pick, how much to buy and a seven-step fitting method. You will find every material and roll size in the Kool Wrap exhaust heat wrap range.

Why riders wrap their exhaust

  • Leg and boot heat. A wrapped header radiates less heat onto your leg, which you notice most in slow traffic on a hot day.
  • Fairing and side cover heat. Plastics and painted panels near the headers see less radiant heat.
  • Nearby parts. Wiring, sensor leads, hoses and fuel lines routed near the pipe run cooler.
  • Looks. Wrap comes in black, white, natural and graphite black finishes.

Pros and cons of bike exhaust wrap

ProsCons
Less radiant heat on your legsWrap holds water, and wet wrap on mild steel speeds up rust
Cooler fairings, side covers and wiringFibreglass fibres irritate skin during fitting
A custom look in four finishesLight smoke on the first ride
Covers tired-looking pipesAlso hides cracks, rust and leaks
Easy to fit at home with scissors and tiesWears out, typically lasting 2 to 5 years

Two points matter more on a bike than a car. First, bikes get wet. Rain, washing and dew all soak into wrap. After a wet ride or a wash, ride long enough to get the pipes fully hot and dry the wrap out.

Second, wrap is not a burn guard. The outer surface still gets hot enough to burn skin, so do not rely on it to protect a pillion’s leg or a child’s calf.

Which wrap and which colour

Standard fibreglass

Standard fibreglass exhaust wrap is rated to 540°C continuous and 980°C intermittent. It comes in black, white and natural (light tan) at 1.5mm thick, in 25mm and 50mm widths. It is a good fit for road bikes that see normal riding.

Vermiculite coated fibreglass

Rated to 650°C continuous and 1,090°C intermittent, in graphite black. It comes in 50mm width only, so it suits bikes with larger pipes.

Titanium basalt fibre

Titanium basalt fibre exhaust wrap is rated to 980°C continuous, the highest in the range. It comes in natural and black, with 25mm rolls in 4.5m and 10m for pipes up to about 37mm, and 50mm rolls in 7.5m, 10m and 15m for larger headers. Choose it for high-performance bikes and track use.

Picking a colour

Black suits blacked-out and dark bikes. Natural gives a classic, retro look. White looks sharp when new but shows road grime and oil quickly.

Picking a width

Use 25mm wrap on pipes up to about 37mm (1.5in) diameter and 50mm on larger pipes. Narrow wrap follows tight header bends more neatly.

How much exhaust wrap for a motorcycle

Measure the length and diameter of each pipe you plan to wrap. Then use the wrap formula in our step-by-step exhaust wrap install guide and add about 10% for bends and tie-offs.

Here is how that works on a bike with 38mm headers, each about 1m long. At 38mm the pipe is just over the 37mm boundary, so 50mm wrap is the default.

BikePipesWrap needed with 50mmWhat to buy
Single cylinder1about 3.2mOne 4.5m roll
Twin2about 6.4mOne 7.5m roll
Inline four, headers only4about 12.8mOne 15m roll

Smaller pipes at or under about 37mm take 25mm wrap, which follows tight bends more neatly. It uses a lot more of it, roughly 7m per metre of pipe against 3.2m for 50mm, so budget for that if you choose the narrow wrap.

Roll lengths differ by material. Standard fibreglass has a 4.5m option, while vermiculite and 50mm titanium start at 7.5m. Measure the length and diameter of your own pipes before you order, because header runs vary a lot between bikes.

Allow at least two stainless ties per pipe, one at each end. Rolls include ties, and you can buy extra from the stainless steel ties range.

How to fit motorcycle exhaust wrap in 7 steps

1. Remove the headers

Let the bike cool completely, then undo the header nuts and hangers and take the pipes off. Wrapping on the bench is far neater than wrapping on the bike. If your bike has an O2 sensor in the header, remove it or mask the boss so you can leave that area bare.

2. Clean and paint

Degrease the pipes and wire brush any loose rust. Coat mild steel pipe with high-temperature exhaust paint and let it dry. Stainless pipe only needs to be clean.

3. Prepare the wrap and plan the route

Put on gloves and long sleeves. Dampening is optional, since Kool Wrap wraps do not need wetting, but a light spray makes the wrap easier to pull tight and keeps fibres down. If you dampen it, run the engine soon after so the heat dries the wrap out. Do not leave damp wrap sitting on the pipe. Mark where hangers and brackets sit so you know where to stop and restart.

4. Start at the narrowest end of the pipe

Fold the first few centimetres of wrap back on itself and lock the fold under the first turn. The cut end stays hidden and will not fray.

5. Wrap with even tension and about 6mm overlap

Pull firmly on every turn. Keep the outside of each bend fully covered. At a bracket or hanger, tie off on one side and restart on the other.

6. Tie off with stainless ties

Fit a tie at every start and finish point and pull it tight with pliers. Turn the lock to the back of the pipe, away from your boot, and trim the tail. Optionally seal the wrap with high-temperature exhaust paint to lock down loose fibres.

7. Refit and heat cycle

Refit the headers, using new exhaust gaskets if the old ones are crushed. Check the wrap clears fairings, side covers, the frame and the rear brake. Start the bike outdoors. Light smoke and a smell on the first ride are normal as binders in the wrap burn off, and they clear after the first few heat cycles. Recheck the ties after the first few rides.

Smoke that continues after that, or smells of oil or fuel, points to contamination or a leak. Find the source before you ride on.

Heat shields and heat sleeves near wiring

Wrap works on the pipe. For parts that sit close to it, use a product made for the part.

  • Heat sleeves protect wiring, sensor leads, hoses and fuel lines. They come in open seam and closed seam versions, so check the product pages for the one that suits your loom.
  • Fibreglass-backed aluminium tape suits the inside of motorcycle fairings. It reflects 95% of radiant heat and withstands up to 454°C radiant heat. Stick it on the panel, never on the pipe.
  • Adhesive heat shields cover larger panels near the headers. Never stick an adhesive shield directly onto an exhaust pipe.

Motorcycle exhaust wrap FAQs

What does exhaust wrap do on a motorcycle?

It keeps heat inside the header instead of letting it radiate onto your leg, your boot and the panels around the pipe. Riders notice the difference most in slow traffic on a hot day. It also keeps wiring, sensor leads and fuel lines routed near the pipe cooler.

Why wrap a motorcycle exhaust?

Three reasons. Leg and boot heat in traffic, protecting plastics and wiring that sit close to the headers, and the wrapped look. On a bike the first reason is the one most riders act on.

How much exhaust wrap do I need for a motorcycle?

On typical 38mm headers about 1m long, allow around 3.2m of 50mm wrap per pipe once you add 10% for bends. A single cylinder takes a 4.5m roll, a twin about 6.4m and an inline four about 12.8m. Narrow 25mm wrap on smaller pipes needs roughly double that length. Measure your own pipes before you order.

How do you install exhaust wrap on a motorcycle?

Take the headers off, clean and paint mild steel, then start at the narrowest end with the first few centimetres folded back under the first turn. Wrap with even tension and about 6mm overlap, tie off with stainless ties at each end, and refit with fresh gaskets. Expect light smoke on the first ride.

Does motorcycle exhaust wrap cause rust?

Wrap does not cause rust, but it holds water against the pipe, and bikes get wet. On bare mild steel that speeds up rust. Paint mild steel headers with high-temperature exhaust paint before wrapping, and after a wet ride or a wash, ride long enough to dry the wrap out.

Will exhaust wrap stop my leg getting burnt?

No. Wrap lowers the radiant heat you feel from the pipe, but the outer surface still gets hot enough to burn skin on contact. Treat a wrapped pipe exactly like a bare one, and do not rely on it to protect a pillion.

Need help choosing?

Want to check how much wrap your bike needs, or which colour and width suit your pipes? Call Kool Wrap on 1300 44 33 34. For car and 4WD systems, and the full calculation method, see the step-by-step exhaust wrap install guide. Rolls, ties and paint are in the exhaust heat wrap range.

Tips For Maintaining Motorcycles

Only passionate motorcyclists know the true value and pride of driving motorcycles. They are the best-made two-wheelers capable of covering the longer distance in the minimum time. The motorcycles represent speed and only because of that reason, many are intrigued to garage a cool motorcycle. If you own a motorcycle, take proper care of it by replacing the Aluminium Foil Tape from Kool Wrap to maintain the exhaust system, necessary for better performance.

However, to enhance the longevity and retain the optimum performance of the motorcycles, you need to maintain your vehicle just like the maintenance needed for cars, trucks, and other vehicles. Here, we have shortlisted a couple of tips for your for maintaining your favourite two-wheeler—

Enhance engine performance

To increase the speed and the speed of the bike, it is mandatory to keep an eye on your motorcycle’s engine. Install the premium quality good air filters that help the vehicle to breathe better. Let the combusted air pass quickly by installing a motorcycle exhaust heat shield efficiently so that the engine can perform better. To enhance the performance of the engine you also need to check the engine oil regularly. With a properly maintained engine and with supreme quality fuel, the motorcycles can run faster.

Cleaning Vehicle

If you ride the motorcycle daily, you should at least wash off the dirt from the bike once a week. For the rest of the days mop the dust from the surface of the body. Use plain water to wash the motorcycle. Once in a while, you can use a mix of water and soap to shampoo the motorcycle.

Maintain brakes & clutch pad

The engine is run by the clutch pad and the brake. For the outstanding performance of the two-wheelers, you need to maintain the clutch pads and brakes regularly. This maintenance prevents accidents that are often caused because of brake failure or skidding on the road.

Replace old battery

Keeping very old batteries in cars and also in motorcycles doesn’t make sense at all. You can consider replacing the old one with a new battery if you find the previous one leaking and causing serious damage to your car. Cleaning the battery terminals is also essential. You can use professional solutions or a mix of water and baking soda to clean off the chemical sediments from the battery terminals before placing the new one.

So, these are some of the most effective tips shared to maintain motorcycles.

Street Machine Magazine Drag Challenge

Kool Wrap has been announced as a class sponsor of this year’s Street Machine Magazine Drag Challenge event. The Drag Challenge is in it’s 7th year and will be boast the largest field of high performance genuine street cars competing in a marathon 5 day drag racing spread over 1,000km around Victoria.

Some of these machines produce more than 2,000hp and racing engines like these were never designed to cruise Victorian country roads. Competitors are not allowed a support crew and some change differentials twice a day or run twin fuel systems for standard grade fuel and racing fuel.

The last event was held pre-Covid and of the 200+ competitors, 23 ran into the 8 second zone and an unbelievable 3 cars posted 7 second quarter mile elapsed times. As you can imagine, these racing engines produce plenty of heat and Kool Wrap will be on hand to supply exhaust wraps, under floor insulation and heat sleeves for fuel lines, cables and hoses.

This years event will take place in Victoria on October 17-22, starting at Calder Park before heading to Portland, Mildura, Heathcote and then back to Calder. Entries open Friday April 2.